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Pruning Shrubs
 
Pruning a Deciduous Shrub - Deciduous shrubs such as Forsythia (Yellow Bell's), are those that lose their foliage during the winter season and have a unique ability to renew themselves almost indefinitely. Some of these shrubs growing in the eastern part of the country are alive and healthy after more than a century, yet these plants don't appear to be to be more than five years old. The secret is proper pruning. Each year a deciduous shrub produces many shoots from the plants base or roots. Wait to begin pruning deciduous shrubs until they are three years old. The best time to prune deciduous shrubs that do not bloom in Spring is late winter. Wait to prune shrubs that flower in Spring until after they bloom. The goal is to remove all but 1/3 of the plants shoots. Below is a basic guidline for pruning deciduous shrubs.
Step 1 - Start by removing long shoots coming up from base, as indicated in yellow, that spoil the shrub's shape and appearance.
Step 2 - Remove all branches that are lying on the ground as well as all the broken, diseased, dead, or criscrossing branches.
Step 3 - Thin out about 1/3 of the oldest branches, leaving no stubs. After blooming the next season cut out about 1/3 of the oldest and all of the dead branches and repeat year after year.
     
Pruning Broadleaf Evergreen Shrubs - As with any other group of plants the broadleaf evergreens such as the large-leaf Hollies, Cleyeras, and Euonymus, require occasional pruning by cutting away branches that have outgrown the rest and removing dead or broken branches. It is best to prune evergreens with hand pruners as hedge trimming causes unsightly scaring of leaves. Selective, minimal, hand pruning also allows your berry producing Hollies to produce a crop of berries in fall. Any heavy pruning or sheering of berry producing Hollies should be done during winter dormancy after most of the berries are gone and before blooming in spring.
 
Pruning Azaleas or Camelias - The method for pruning Azaleas and Camelias varies depending on the age of the plant. For younger Azaleas and Camelias, pruning is best performed just after blooming in Spring or Fall. Use hand pruners to cut back branches that have outgrown the rest and cut away any dead branches or one's that spoil the shape of the plant. For older Azaleas that have become spindly it may be necessary to prune back as is recommended above for deciduous shrubs.
 
Pruning Blueberries - Wait to prune young blueberries until their fourth year. The during the early spring dormant season remove dead or weak stems as well as any crossing branches that block light from the interior. Blueberries form flower buds on one year old strong wood. Plants that don't hve vigorous new wood should be pruned to encourage new growth. On more mature plants it may be necessary to thin older branchesthat have the most thin twiggy griwth and the fewest strong one year old shoots. Cut them at the crown to encourage new growthHead small branches that have small flowerbuds. Judge the amount of overall thinning needed by the size of the berries. If the berries have been small, prune more heavily the following dormant season. If large, limit pruning. Below is a diagram showing how a blueberry shrub should be pruned if berries have been small.
 
Pruning a Shrub to a Tree-Form - Tree-form shrubs such as the single-trunk. Upright Yaupon Holly to right can be focal points that add lots of character to your landscape. The best shrubs for tree-forming are ones that grow at least six feet in height and higher. You may either prune for single or multi trunk depending on the existing branching. Begin tree-forming by starting at the bottom of the shrub first removing the lowest horizontal branches. Remove any small twiigy branches that are on the noew visible trunk(s). Then take a few steps back and visualize how high up you want to prune to achieve the desired shape. Continue with another round of pruning by cutting away the next round of lower horizontal branches. Step back again to check out your work and if necessary continue this process until you have achieved the desired look. Top pruning or sheering may be necessary to achive a more formal shape.
 
Pruning Lantana - Prune Lantana shrubs, such as 'Miss Huff's Hardy' Lantana, only in Spring when new growth begins to emerge. Prune back all dead parts of branches to just above the point where new growth is emerging. Warning: Fall pruning ensures death of the plant. If necessary, a mid-summer light sheering to remove berries and encourage new budding is okay.
 

Pruning a Topiary

To prune an existing shrub, or train a shrub, into a topiary form requires artistic visual skills. You must be able to see in your minds eye the end result before you begin pruning. There are endless forms of topiary. Perhaps the most popular are poodle tier and pom pom. To form a poodle tier topiary it requires a vertical/cylindrical growing shrub such as Hetzi Columnar Juniper that has a single main trunk. On the other hand, pom pom topiaries are best formed from lower growing to mid size shrubs, such as Sea Green Juniper, with several upward or outward reaching main branches. Many shrubs such as Compacta Hollies and Privets may be pruned into all sorts of shapes ranging from animals to geometrical to spriral. To form some of these more intricate shapes it certainly requires some carving skills and patience.

POM POM - To prune a pom pom topiary select an existing shrub that has several main branches that grow in random directions. Select a branch and begin pruning away branchlettes from the base of the main branch upward or outward until you have reached a point where you can form the pom pom ball. Repeat process on other main branches. Shape pom poms into spherical, oval, square, or saucer shapes. Clip as necessary during the growing season to maintain desired shape.

POODLE TIER: To prune a poodle tier as pictured below determine where you want your global-shape sections to be and then tie strings around the perimeter of the shrub above and below these sections. Then begin to prune away any branches, as close as possible to the main trunk, that are between the sections marked by the strings. After you have removed all of the branches between, shape the tiers as you like into spherical, square, cylindrical, oval, or various other shapes. Clip as necessary during the growing season to maintain desired shape.

   
Poodle Tier
Pom-pom

 

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